From the Thomas Bros. guidebook of 1955 (from author's collection) |
Other than the distant sign R-O-S-E H-I-L-L-S at the western face of the Puente Hills, there is nothing beckoning a detour to an idyllic spot with a water feature, or a Shangri-La getaway. In 1926 there were two such places.
Shallowbrook Road today, looking west into Gateway Pointe |
The
main thoroughfare Workman Mill Road takes one to the main gate of Rose Hills
Memorial Park. Opposite is Shallowbrook
Road leading to blocks of the grayish-white buildings, Gateway Pointe
Industrial Park, the 1.6 million square foot complex completed in
mid-2006. Prior to this was an expanse of wild
growth from former agricultural fields.
The
road name is the only visible reminder of a former ranch. The next street southward is Mission Mill
Road, the location of the two former houses profiled here.
10005 Mission Mill Road was the home of Adela Rogers St. Johns (1894-1988) on a property named Shallow Brook Ranch. She was a “girl reporter” whose first job was on William Randolph Hearst’s San Francisco Examiner. She later interviewed celebrities in the budding world of Hollywood movie stars, and she authored several books, including a biography of her father, prominent L.A. criminal lawyer Earl Rogers. At the age of 82 she reported on the trial of Patricia Hearst.
Adela Rogers St. Johns home, ca. 1977 Courtesy of the Seaver Center for Western History Research (Historic Sites Surveys) |
Though married
three times she kept the name of her first husband Ivan St. Johns. The 1920 census shows they were living in Los
Angeles at 2109 Toberman Street. His
occupation was listed as secretary to the mayor, and the couple had two kids, Elaine,
not quite 2 years old and Ivan, Jr., about 2 months old. The Los Angeles Herald reported in the spring
of 1921 that Ivan, Mayor Meredith Snyder’s secretary, would take a new
assignment to direct Snyder’s re-election campaign. The mayor did not get elected for a fourth
term, and Ivan was out of a job.
A
November, 1926 issue of the Los Angeles Times boasted a new home of the “old
English type” built for $35,000, in the Whittier district but outside the city
limits. Also mentioned - the house was
surrounded by a 15-acre walnut grove. The
west side of the property almost reached San Gabriel Parkway where the 605 runs
today.
In
very close proximity across the Parkway (but polar opposites socio-economically)
stood a neighborhood with four streets consisting of modest, small houses and
walnut operation-related structures:
Chancellor and Spring Grove Avenues, and Kratt and Shadow Lanes. Those homes cleared out about the year 1950 through
eminent domain for the Whittier Narrows dam project; the Army Corps of
Engineers drew the line at the Parkway sparing the lovely mansions on Mission Mill
Road.
From Pictorial California March 1928 issue, misidentified as Sunnybrook Ranch (Courtesy of the Seaver Center, Historic Sites Surveys) |
From Thomas Bros. Guide of 1955 |
Adela’s
13-year marriage went south as the Times reported her divorce finalized in the spring
of 1928, citing extreme cruelty on the husband’s fault. The week after the divorce she married
Richard Hyland, a former Stanford football star three years her junior. They settled into the Whittier house. Adela’s second marriage fizzled after six
years and a custody battle for their son.
The
location of the house was not far-fetched.
Ivan St. Johns was a local boy.
His parents settled in the city of Whittier in the late 1890s, by way of
Iowa and Pomona. Clara and Samuel St.
Johns were not farmers. Clara was New
York-born and educated. Samuel soon took
ownership of the Whittier Hotel, which prior to 1896 was called Hotel Lindley,
located at Bright and Philadelphia Avenues.
Clara ran a millinery shop, and the family home was in today’s Uptown
Whittier district. Daughters Mabel and
Pearl attended Stanford University and USC respectively. Clara survived both her husband’s death in
1908 and son Ivan’s premature death in 1935 brought on by a heart attack while
living in Hollywood with his second wife and making a living as editor of Photoplay,
a fan magazine.
For three additional photographs of the St. Johns home, go to the Whittier Public Library Digital Archives.
Another view circa 1977 (Courtesy of the Seaver Center, Historic Sites Surveys) |
The
tremendous rain and floods in March of 1938 throughout Los Angeles County caused
the “swollen San Jose creek,” and the newspaper reported 20 eucalyptuses on the
Alexander property swept down the creek to the San Gabriel River. Perhaps a calmer creek from ten years earlier inspired the name Shallow Brook.
A
California publication, The Grizzly Bear, ran an article October 1948 reporting
the 500 members of the Native Sons of California and their guests who convened
at Alexander’s Shallow Brook Ranch to hear Congressman Richard M. Nixon discuss
the House Un-American Activities Committee, which Nixon was a member. Master of Ceremonies was Edward J. Guirado,
another local citizen. It must have been
a fond return to Shallow Brook Ranch for Nixon – Adela’s obituary stated that
Nixon was a newspaper delivery boy whose route included her house. In 1970 when Nixon was President of the U.S.,
he awarded a Presidential Medal of Freedom to eight journalists, including Adela. President Nixon remarked that she had been a
long-time friend of him, his wife and their families.
The house at 10005 Mission Road was demolished in
1981 to make way for the new headquarters of Oltmans Construction Company. The last owner seemed to be Alexander’s wife,
Audrey, who by then was about 65 years old.
In 1985 Oltmans moved into the modern two-story office building along with
a service facility totaling over 55,000 square feet.
On a visit the morning of October 19th
this writer saw a concrete channel across the street from the Oltmans office
building. It is a portion of the storm
drain system to control a tributary of the San Gabriel River. The Whittier Narrows Dam was completed in
1957 to capture the water flow of the San Gabriel River and the Rio Hondo. Beyond, cars moving on the 605 freeway can be
seen yet the traffic noise does not seem to reach this spot.
Mission Mill Road ends here at a mattress graveyard, but it used to continue westerly meeting up with San Gabriel Parkway |
A view of a decapitated tropical palm tree |
This location approximately matches the earlier-shown 1928 photo by Pictorial California |
Incidentally
one of Oltmans’ recent clients was a neighboring firm, the Quinn Company. Oltmans was also the
construction firm for the Gateway Pointe complex a decade ago.
The
Neighbor at 10004 Mission Mill Road
Film director Frank Lloyd (1886-1960) built a
mansion (architect, Lucius A. Phillips) the same year of 1926 across from the
St. Johns property. He and his wife Alma
along with their 5-year old daughter Alma Catherine can be found in the 1920
census.
Frank Lloyd/Walter Green Home, ca. 1977 (Courtesy of the Seaver Center, Historic Sites Surveys) |
The Lloyds were early trendsetters among the “film
colony” to invest in ranch properties in the prosperous years before the Great Depression,
keeping up with the likes of silent film cowboy star William S. Hart’s Horseshoe Ranch in
Newhall and actor Noah Beery’s Paradise Trout Ranch in the San Fernando Valley. Frank was successfully making silent films;
this home was built one year before the first full-length talkie The Jazz
Singer. Frank’s career was
punctuated by two Academy Awards for Best Directing.
L to R: Mr. & Mrs. Ernest Torrance, Mr. & Mrs. Frank Lloyd, daughter Alma Lloyd at the 1932 premiere of Fox's Cavalcade at Grauman's Chinese Theatre in Hollywood (Courtesy of the Seaver Center) |
The St. Johns/Hyland family and the Lloyds were
neighbors who shared common backgrounds in the entertainment industry. Were the Lloyds swayed by the street names at
their crossroads – San Gabriel Parkway and Mission Mill – the latter name a
colorful conjoining of two words evoking the romantic California past? Were the families aware that the original site of
Mission San Gabriel was a mile and a half away?
Or were they influenced by the other “film colony”
that had moved prominently into nearby El Monte a year earlier – Gay’s Lion
Farm produced at least three movie star lions.
By the twenties, Palm Springs was a popular destination for Hollywood
actors – did their road trips east along the highway Garvey Avenue allow a
chance to discover this part of the Whittier outskirts?
In the spring of 1936, the tranquil creek nearby
provided a nice attraction for daughter Alma to host an all-day outdoor party
at the walnut ranch which the newspaper referred to as “The Grove”. Guests were asked to dress casually so they
could fish for crawfish and not worry about tipping over in the stream or
running through the meadows.
The
storm of ’38 may have prompted the Lloyds to head back west. The Los Angeles Times reported in the summer
of 1939 that they were settling in their new ranch in the Topanga Canyon.
At some point the house became the home of Dr.
Walter S. Green. His property was the
location of two barbecue ranch-style fundraisers for Assemblyman Dave Stirling,
once in 1977 and again in 1979.
Unknown is who razed this house – could it have been Oltmans? They also owned the property at 10050 Mission Mill Road that received a contract to warehouse the first California lottery tickets in 1985.
Unknown is who razed this house – could it have been Oltmans? They also owned the property at 10050 Mission Mill Road that received a contract to warehouse the first California lottery tickets in 1985.
Wonderful read, love the area.
ReplyDeleteShame to see how those houses and barns on Baybar Rd and Kraft Ln are leveled. I was lucky enough to document the area with some photos before demolition.
Thanks for sharing Cremer! That’s so great that you documented some of the area.
ReplyDeleteI was actually fortunate enough to have visited and played at the Shallow Brook Ranch House (mansion to a 13 year old boy in the early 1970’s) as a guest of one Glen Alexander, who told us that hat it was his great aunts house. We visited it a couple of times and I was enthralled with the grandeur of the interior and exterior of the house. It was in some disrepair as I remember but still regal. Driving by on a nostalgic car ride in the 80’s I was saddened to see both grand homes gone. So called progress. Being born and growing up in Whittier that story has been repeated many times as I have seen many regal old homes in the city demolished over the years. D. Schultz. Whittier High Graduate of 1977.
ReplyDeleteThank you David! For providing pieces to the historical puzzle. How cool you got to visit the mansion! Sincerely, Betty
ReplyDeleteI've read this before and decided to share my experiences. Grew up on the next street and often rode my bike around the area of the two houses. Went to our 6th grade graduation party at the Alexander house, with the big concrete block swimming pool. The head of Rose Hills Memorial Park, nearby, had his "Lazy J G Ranch", where every other year, a picnic was staged for the employees, including our family. Great fun! (The other year was celebrated at Disneyland.) A shame to tear down the two houses, but that area had become too noisy with the 605 Freeway so close by.
ReplyDeleteI’ll bet I know you! I also grew up nearby, on Cliota St. our family moved there in 1956. I attended Mission Mill Elementary School. I was friends with Randy Green for a short while. I loved going to the Lazy JG for our picnics with Rose Hills. I was saddened by the razing of the Greens, Alexander’s and Pellissier (where Rio Hondo College sits now)mansions. It was a great place to grow up. Lots of places to ride my horse.
DeleteThank you for your recollections. It really substantiates that there was once a nice, close knit community here. Sincerely, Betty Uyeda
ReplyDelete